Schoolhouse bench desk

School bench desk by JohnEdgarPark
School bench desk, a photo by JohnEdgarPark on Flickr.

We just got this excellent folding schoolhouse bench/desk at the Rose Bowl Flea Market. It’ll be going inside the house, and I’m considering screwing it into the floor rather than mounting it on a finished piece of wood (to replace the 2x4s).

Not sure about its history (seller had gotten it at an estate sale). The iron legs have this to say:

 No 1  PAT FEB 3 1868 FEB 20 1872

If you have any guesses at its origin, I’d love to know more.

Image

iPhone Case Back Project

iPhone Case Back Project

I’m laser cutting a wood veneer to apply to the back of my slightly cracked iPhone back. The starting point for me is the dimension drawings from Apple. You can get them here.

Rather conveniently, the drawing pdf imports into Rhino (the NURBS modeling/drafting application I use) as curves, so I don’t need to trace and redraw the dimensions.

iPhoneRhino

I’m only using the inner curve from the camera back and the camera keep out guide, which recommends the distance from camera lens and flash hole to avoid vignetting or tinting your photos.

iPhoneKeepout

IMG_7092

Next step was to apply 3M adhesive to a sheet of wood veneer.

IMG_1278

This is the back of my phone — notice the hairline cracks in the glass from dropping it a couple of weeks ago.
Always use a wrench to weigh down your wood veneer sheet.

Always use a wrench to weigh down your wood veneer sheet in the laser cutter bed.

I decided not to etch an image on this first try, so I only vector cut the veneer and adhesive. On an Epilog Zing 16 this is 80% speed, 40% power.

I decided not to etch an image on this first try, so I only vector cut the veneer and adhesive. On an Epilog Zing 16 this is 80% speed, 40% power.

Once it's been cut out, I peeled off the backing.

Once cut out, I peeled off the backing.

I think I'll adjust the camera/flash cutout in a little bit, this is crazy thin at the edge.

I think I’ll adjust the camera/flash cutout in a little bit, this is crazy thin at the edge (due to kerf). This is the adhesive side, not sure what that straight line is all about, it’s not in the wood.

Applied to the phone back.

Applied to the phone back.

Very stylish self portrait of my iPhone with its new wooden back.

Very stylish self portrait of my iPhone with its new wooden back.

Cin Tool Co

Cin Tool Co by JohnEdgarPark
Cin Tool Co, a photo by JohnEdgarPark on Flickr.

I just cleaned up some surface rust and gunk from this nice little clamp I rescued from a rusted out toolbox I bought, then hit it with some oil to protect the surface.

Here’s a look at the other side:
Clamp

This being the internet and all, there is a webpage for people interested in the history of clamp companies. From this, the clampguy.info site, I present some history, including the fact that my clamp was designed by the grandfather of the author:

Hargrave brand of Cincinnati Tool Co

The Cincinnati Tool Company was founded in 1877. In 1925, it changed its name to the Hargrave Company, which continued until 1955.
The information below was provided through the kindness of John McCutcheon, of Grand Rapids, Michigan
A “circled H” on tools made by Cincinnati Tool Company signifies that it was designed by my grandfather, John M. Hargrave (1889-1975).
Edward Hollister Hargrave worked for Cincinnati Tool Co. in the late 1800′s. By 1911 or 1912, when he died, I think he was running the company.
John Morris Hargrave (his son) had just graduated from M.I.T., with a degree in Electrical Engineering. He was called home to take over the company. (I don’t know if he owned the company or not at that time, but I am pretty certain that he did eventually. I believe he sold the company and retired sometime in the 1950′s.)
The company made a complete line of hand tools of all kinds, from bar, cee and wooden jaw clamps to cold chisels, star drills, etc.

Here is a drawing from Hargrave’s Patent No. 1,918,469 which I found on the Directory of American Tool and Machinery Patents

Patent 1,918,469

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