Super-Awesome Sylvia Todd and I have taken a photo together each year since her first Maker Faire in 2009. Often, we’ve held a photo of the previous year, sometimes recursively.
I created this recursion video in Maya to push into each previous year’s photo. Play it in a loop and we never, ever stop!
When I publicly commit to kooky goals, such as training for a Festivus-like, barren-pole feat of strength, there may be some DIY gymnastics/parkour equipment-building involved.
Rather than digging a post hole and planting a pole in concrete (which I’ll be doing for more elaborate future project) I decided to mount a pole to the wooden playset in the backyard. (I checked with my kids first — they were cool with it.)
I got a 10′ length of 1-1/2″ O.D. galvanized Schedule 40 steel pipe and cut it down to 6′. I don’t own a pipe threader, and the one at my local hardware store is down for maintenance, so I opted to press fit (as in, with a deadblow hammer) the pipe into threaded elbows.
I did it
Remember back in May, when I did this?
And then trained like this?
Well, thanks to my Pilates trainer Jaime Rutt, and a lot of bodyweight workouts, today I did this:
I managed an eight second flag. For people keeping score at home, that’s about 12% of the current world record of 65 seconds. Pretty sure I’ll be showing this off at every party, bus stop, and playground I encounter from here on out.
I’m amazed how many hotel gyms don’t have a pull-up bar. I decided to build some lightweight, possibly dangerous, over-the-door pull-up handles. If you don’t hear from me for a while, it’s because I died with the Do Not Disturb sign hanging from the doorknob.
Cut to 6″ lengths
Smooth the edges…
…inside and out
Shoot a selfie
Tie a water knot
Another selfie, super pleased
As previously posted in part 1 I’m making wooden gymnastics rings from 1/8″ layers of laser cut baltic birch plywood. Of many possible methods my friends have suggested for sanding them, while keeping their circular profile, I’m starting off the first one with the most low-tech solution. I’m hand sanding them.
It is a lot of work. So far, the 60 grit paper is working great at removing the stepped profile and getting a nice, consistent curve.
I joked yesterday that sanding the rings is a better workout than using the rings.
I’ll move down to finer grits on this one, and then may take a shot at using a power sander and jig or some other higher-tech method for the second ring.
Sometimes its fun to build and code a little project to test new hardware, as well as just for the heck of it. I built this demo thing with a Spikenzie Labs SPLixel board and LED strip, Arduino, and ScrewShield. I read one knob to control the position (which LED is lit), the other controls the green component of the color mix.
In order to keep the knobs from moving around too much, I screwed some small c-clamps onto them.
It’s fun to play with. A little bit.
I bought a couple of sheets of this 3D printer build surface material from BuildTak when I was at Bay Area Maker Faire 2014. It works much better than the blue painters tape we were using on our 1st gen. Ultimaker at work, printing PLA plastic. The trick is in finding a material to which the printed plastic will adhere well enough for stable printing, but not so well that it is too difficult to remove the object when finished.
Note: As seen in the bottom-right photo, I wasn’t very careful laying down the sheet, and managed to trap a few air bubbles. Oops. Hopefully that won’t create any terrible problems with critical prints.
Get some here at BuildTak. This sheet was around $10 and should last for many, many prints. How many? I’ll let you know.